David Moore: Inside 35 Years of London’s Longest-Running Michelin-Starred Restaurant | Ramsay vs Aikens & Why Michelin's Rating System Is Broken

David Moore joins the Go To Food podcast for a barnstorming conversation that spans 35 years of restaurant history, from opening Pied à Terre in just two weeks to turning it into London’s longest-running Michelin-starred restaurant. In this episode, he tells the real story of life at the sharp end of hospitality: the punishing economics of today’s trade, the rates bill that made him cry, the disappearing profit margin, and why simply surviving in this market now feels like an achievement. It is brutally honest, brilliantly dry, and full of the kind of perspective only someone who has genuinely seen it all can give.

But this is not just an industry analysis, it is packed with outrageous stories. David remembers growing up around his mother’s hotel in Ireland, hanging sirloins, slicing steaks, and dreaming of becoming a chef before realising the front of house was where he belonged. He talks about his formative years at Le Manoir, living with Bruno Loubet, staging at Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV, learning luxury service on carpets so thick they hurt your legs, and discovering what real fine dining looked like. He also shares the origin story of Pied à Terre itself, from late-night chess games and leftover wine with Richard Neat to quietly sounding out would-be investors from the dining room floor, including some very famous names.

The episode is full of proper restaurant folklore. There are stories about chefs vanishing on “Tesco runs” and never coming back, the chaos of rewriting menus daily before in-house printing existed, diners walking into Pied à Terre expecting an Indian restaurant because they kept the old phone number and awning, and the extraordinary intensity of the kitchens David helped build. He reflects on working alongside and around huge figures including Raymond Blanc, Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Tom Aikens and Shane Osborne, and opens up about pivotal moments that shaped the restaurant’s history, from the jump to two Michelin stars to the fallout from kitchen scandal, devastating fire, and a wine fraud scam involving fake wealthy clients and disappearing bottles of Cristal.

And because this is Go To Food, the whole thing is laced with food, wit and obsession. David arrives with a beautiful scallop and beetroot ceviche-style dish, talks through the first ceviche he ever put on a menu in London, gives his view on Michelin stars and why there should be decimal points, names the restaurants he most admires, and shares his dream food weekend on Île de Ré with oysters and Muscadet. He even reveals his ultimate final meal, from smoked eel cheung fun to roast turbot and plum tarte tatin. If you want war stories, hospitality wisdom, Michelin gossip, and one of the great restaurateurs speaking with total candour, this is an episode you need to hear.

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