Skellig Michael: An Archaeologist Explains What It’s Really Like to Visit Ireland’s Most Extreme Island

Skellig Michael rises straight out of the Atlantic, jagged and dramatic, and according to archaeologist Neil Jackman, it’s every bit as challenging as it looks. Visiting this remote Kerry island can be an extraordinary experience – but only if travelers understand what’s involved before they try. Visiting Skellig Michael: What Travelers Need to Know Clochans on Skellig MichaelImage provided by Tuatha; used with permission This article is based on podcast episode 325 featuring archaeologist Neil Jackman, director of Abarta Heritage and Tuatha. Neil is a returning guest – listen to his episode about Ireland's Ancient East.Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Where the Skellig Islands Are and Why They’re So Unforgettable The Skellig Islands sit about 12 kilometers (8 miles) off the coast of County Kerry, beyond the Skellig Ring. Skellig Michael is the larger of the two, shaped like a steep stone pyramid rising from the ocean. From viewpoints along the Ring of Kerry, it’s striking – but being out on the water brings its scale and isolation into sharp focus. Neil describes it as a place that doesn’t quite belong to the modern world, and that sense of otherworldliness is part of what makes the islands so compelling. The Monastery at the Edge of the Atlantic Skellig Michael’s fame isn’t just about scenery. The island is home to an early medieval monastery, likely founded in the 7th century by monks seeking complete isolation for spiritual devotion. With no deserts in Ireland, remote Atlantic islands became places of withdrawal and focus. The monastery complex includes: Dry-stone beehive huts (clocháns)Oratories and outdoor altarsA burial area and stone crossesIngenious rainwater collection systems All of it was built without mortar, relying entirely on carefully balanced stone. The site later endured Viking raids, was rededicated to St. Michael the Archangel, and eventually abandoned as a permanent settlement—though it never lost its importance as a place of pilgrimage. Little Skellig: The Island You Can’t Visit Beside Skellig Michael is Little Skellig, dramatically steeper and even more inhospitable. Today it’s a protected bird sanctuary, home to tens of thousands of gannets, and landing is not permitted. While archaeologists believe it would be surprising if Little Skellig was completely unused in the past, modern visitors experience it only from the water – where its scale and wildlife are still jaw-dropping. When Skellig Michael Can Be Visited Access to Skellig Michael is extremely limited. The landing season generally runs from late April or early May through September, and even then, weather plays the deciding role. Roughly one-third of scheduled trips are canceled each year. Calm conditions on shore don’t guarantee a landing; the swell at the island’s pier must be minimal, and conditions can change quickly. Neil stresses that flexibility is essential. Neil Jackman at the monastery of Skellig Michaelimage provide by Neil; used with permission Booking Tips From Someone Who’s Been There Demand for Skellig Michael has increased dramatically, and visitor numbers are tightly controlled for safety and preservation. What travelers should know: Landing permits sell out quicklyStaying near Portmagee or Valentia Island improves your chances of last-minute openingsPlanning multiple days in the area gives you flexibility if weather cancels your trip There’s no foolproof strategy – just patience, preparation, and backup plans. What a Landing Trip Is Really Like A landing trip typically includes a 45–55 minute boat ride each way, often rough even on decent days. Once ashore, visitors have several hours on the island – but the physical challenge comes fast. The climb to the monastery involves 618 steep stone steps, with no handrails and narrow sections where people pass in both directions. Neil’s practical advice: Skip walking sticks; you need free hands for balanceAnyone uncomfortable with heights should think carefully before starting the climbYou don’t need to be an athlete, but a reasonable level of fitness mattersTake breaks – there are natural resting points along the way There is now a single toilet facility near the landing area, but queues form quickly. Puffins, Gannets, and Wildlife Encounters From April through early July, Skellig Michael is home to thousands of puffins, nesting right beside the steps. They’re remarkably unfazed by visitors and are a highlight for many travelers. Gannets dominate the skies year-round, and crossings sometimes include sightings of dolphins or whales. Later in the season, the puffins are gone, but the atmosphere of the island remains just as powerful. Eco Tours: A Worthwhile Alternative For those who can’t land – or choose not to – eco tours circle Skellig Michael and Little Skellig without docking. These trips focus on: Wildlife viewingSea cliffs and island ...