Episodes

  • Ireland Cruise Excursions: How to Make the Most of Your Day in Port

    Ireland Cruise Excursions: How to Make the Most of Your Day in Port
    Mar 24 2026
    Cruise stops in Ireland can feel like a whirlwind – but with the right plan, even a few hours can turn into an unforgettable experience. With more cruise ships arriving at Irish ports each year, travelers have more options than ever when it comes to shore excursions. But not all tours, or tour providers, are created equal. Seabourn Ovation docked in CobhPodstawko, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons This article is based on podcast episode 332 featuring Bob McAuliffe, owner of About Ireland Taxi Tours.Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Ireland Cruise Excursions: How to Choose the Right Experience Bob McAuliffe, owner of About Ireland Taxi Tours, has spent decades helping visitors make the most of their limited time ashore. His advice is simple: focus on quality, not quantity. Bob's pro-tips will help you choose the right excursion and make the most of your time in port. Check Reliability Before You Book Before reserving any independent excursion, take time to read reviews and verify the company’s reputation. Look at platforms like Google and TripAdvisor to get a sense of consistency and service. A reliable company should also guarantee that you’ll return to your ship on time – something not every provider offers. Avoid Over-Ambitious Itineraries Ireland may look small on a map, but travel times can be deceiving. Routes often include narrow roads, scenic stops, and unexpected delays. For example, trying to visit the Cliffs of Moher from Cork during a short port stop simply isn’t realistic. A good tour provider will tell you that—and help you plan something more enjoyable instead. Choose the Right Vehicle for Comfort Vehicle size matters more than many travelers expect. Irish cars are generally smaller than those in North America, so squeezing too many people into a standard sedan can make for a long, uncomfortable day. If you’re traveling with a group or need accessibility accommodations, confirm the vehicle type in advance. Don’t Trust Google Maps Timing Google Maps often underestimates travel time in Ireland because it assumes local driving speeds without stops. But visitors tend to pause for photos, scenery, and spontaneous discoveries – which is part of the magic. Build in extra time so your day feels relaxed, not rushed. Charles Fort, viewed from the harbour Why Local Drivers Make All the Difference One of the biggest advantages of booking an independent tour is the opportunity to connect with a local driver. These aren’t just drivers – they’re storytellers, guides, and often lifelong residents of the area. They know the backroads, the history, and the personal connections that turn a sightseeing trip into something memorable. That might mean: Stopping at a family-run sweet shop to watch traditional candy being madeVisiting a quiet village not on typical tour routesGetting a quick lesson in hurling in a nearby fieldTracing family roots with help from local heritage centers It’s these moments, unplanned and personal, that tend to stand out most. This sheep didn't mind having his photo taken as we traveled through West Cork. Making the Most of Limited Time in Port Cruise schedules are tight, especially at tender ports where getting ashore takes additional time. Planning your day carefully ensures you see more and stress less. Start Early at Popular Attractions If Blarney Castle is on your list, for example, timing is everything. Arriving early can mean the difference between a quick visit and hours in line to kiss the Blarney Stone. Even better, allow time to explore the gardens, which many consider the highlight of the visit. Know When You Don’t Need a Tour In some ports, you may not need a driver at all. For example: Cobh offers easy access to attractions like Spike Island, the Titanic Experience, and Fota HouseDublin city center is highly walkable, with museums and landmarks close together A trustworthy provider will tell you when you can explore on your own, and when a guided experience adds value. Focus on What You Enjoy Rather than trying to tick off a “top 10” list, think about what interests you most. Love gardens? Ireland has plenty.Interested in history? Castles, heritage sites, and ancient ruins are everywhere.Prefer local experiences? Markets, pubs, and small workshops offer authentic connections. Your day should reflect your interests, not a generic checklist. Guest Feature: Bob McAuliffe, About Ireland Taxi Tours Bob McAuliffe is the owner of About Ireland Taxi Tours, a company offering private, customizable day tours and cruise excursions from all 12 Irish ports. What began as a local taxi service in Cork has grown into a nationwide network of experienced, local drivers who provide personalized tours based on each traveler’s interests and schedule. Bob and his team specialize in: Cruise ship shore excursionsPrivate day toursCustom ...
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    28 mins
  • 10 Castles in Ireland to Inspire Your Trip

    10 Castles in Ireland to Inspire Your Trip
    Mar 17 2026
    Ireland and castles go hand in hand. With thousands scattered across the island, it can feel like there’s one around every bend in the road. The real challenge isn’t finding castles in Ireland — it’s deciding which ones to add to your itinerary. Barbican Gate Rock of Dunamase, County Laois, Ireland This article is based on the Traveling in Ireland podcast, episode 331. Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. No matter the type of travel you enjoy—or the type of transportation you’re using—you’ll find castles that easily fit into your trip. With more than 30,000 castles and castle ruins scattered across Ireland, the real challenge isn’t finding them… it’s deciding which ones make sense for your route and the time you have. That’s exactly the kind of planning the Ireland Travel Compass is designed to help with. It brings attractions and accommodations together geographically, helps you see what fits well together, and makes it much easier to build an itinerary that actually works. And if you’d like a simple way to start thinking about your own itinerary, I’ve created a resource that walks you through my TRIP framework – a straightforward way to avoid the most common Ireland planning mistakes and build a trip that feels manageable and enjoyable. 10 Castles in Ireland Worth Visiting With thousands of castles scattered across Ireland, choosing which ones to visit can feel a bit overwhelming. Here are a few of my favorite castles in Ireland—and why they stand out. Rock of Dunamase (County Laois) – The Dramatic Castle Ruin Rock of Dunamase may be one of the most atmospheric castle ruins in Ireland. The site dates back to the 9th century when it served as a stronghold of the Kings of Laois. The ruins visitors see today sit on top of a massive rocky outcrop and were largely destroyed during Cromwell’s invasion in 1650. Even in ruin, the location tells you why it mattered: the views stretch for miles across the countryside. Traveler tips: Free OPW-managed siteRarely crowdedEasy detour when traveling between Dublin and KilkennyShort walk up to the ruins with sweeping views Driving through narrow country roads and farmland to reach it only adds to the experience. Lawn games in front of Malahide Castle : Crack the whip.By Aoife for Flytographer; Dublin, Ireland. All rights reserved. Malahide Castle (County Dublin) – The Fairy Tale Castle Just 10 minutes from Dublin Airport, Malahide Castle is a perfect first stop after arriving in Ireland. The castle itself offers fascinating guided tours led by engaging storytellers who bring the Talbot family history to life. But the estate offers far more than the castle alone. Visitors can enjoy: Extensive parklands perfect for stretching your legs after a flightWalled gardensA fairy trailButterfly houseDining at Avoca café The grounds are partly free to explore, while the gardens and castle tour require tickets. During busy months (May–September), it’s smart to pre-book the castle tour. Malahide is also very easy to reach from Dublin city center by DART or bus, making it a great half-day excursion. Looking for more day trips from Dublin? Click Here! Bunratty Castle beyond Durty Nellie's Bunratty Castle (County Clare) – The Irish Tower House Experience If you want to understand the most common type of castle in Ireland, Bunratty Castle is the perfect example. Tower houses — tall, four-story defensive structures — once dotted the Irish landscape. Bunratty is considered the most completely restored example in the country. Visitors can explore: Dungeon levelsNarrow spiral staircasesBattlements with views over the countryside Surrounding the castle is Bunratty Folk Park, a 26-acre living history village that showcases historic Irish homes and daily life. Highlights include: Traditional farmhouses and cottagesCostumed interpretersA recreated village with shops, schoolhouse, and pub Bunratty is also famous for its medieval banquet experience, held year-round. These dinners are extremely popular, so booking well in advance is highly recommended. Kilkenny Castle viewed from the parklands Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny) – Ireland’s Castle Palace Unlike many defensive castles, Kilkenny Castle evolved into a grand aristocratic residence. Originally built as a fortress, it was transformed over centuries by the Butler family — Earls and later Dukes of Ormond — who held the castle for more than 600 years. Today visitors will find: Elegant reception roomsDecorative plasterwork ceilingsLarge windows overlooking parklandFormal gardens The castle sits in the center of Kilkenny City, surrounded by roughly 50 acres of parkland that locals still use for picnics, sports, and relaxing on sunny days. Kilkenny Castle is an OPW managed site. Tickets are available on site, and advance booking is rarely necessary. Learn about the OPW Heritage Card – the best deal in Irish history ...
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    25 mins
  • How to Get from Dublin Airport to Dublin City Centre

    How to Get from Dublin Airport to Dublin City Centre
    Mar 13 2026
    Landing at Dublin Airport is often the first stop in your Ireland journey, but one of the first questions many travelers have is how to get into the city centre. A lot of people immediately look for the cheapest option. That makes sense, but the cheapest option may not always be the best choice depending on how many people are traveling, how much luggage you have, and where your hotel is located. Dublin Airport to Dublin City Centre Transportation Options Before we look at the ways to get into Dublin city centre, there is one important thing to know. There is no train connection at Dublin Airport. Despite being Ireland’s busiest airport, the terminals are not connected to the rail network. That surprises quite a few travelers who expect to find a train station like they would at many major European airports. Instead, transportation from Dublin Airport to the city centre is handled by taxis and bus services. When you arrive at the airport, your main options are taxi, Dublin Express, AirCoach, or Dublin Bus. Each works well depending on your budget, luggage, and where your accommodation is located. Here’s what to know before deciding which option works best for you. Taxi A taxi is the most convenient way to travel from Dublin Airport to the city centre. Taxis are available directly outside the terminal and will drop you right at your hotel door. After a long flight, that convenience can be worth the extra cost. If you are traveling with multiple people or a lot of luggage, the price of a taxi may actually make more sense than a bus. From personal experience, dragging luggage several blocks after getting off a bus is not something I’m eager to repeat. Now I often choose the taxi simply because it brings me exactly where I want to go. Dublin Express Dublin Express is one of the faster bus options from the airport. Two main routes operate from both terminals, the 782 and 784, with departures approximately every 15 to 20 minutes. Tickets can be purchased online or at the airport. One thing to note is that the Leap card is not accepted on Dublin Express, which can be important if you planned to use that transit card during your time in Dublin. The service makes limited stops, which can make it quicker than other bus options. AirCoach AirCoach is another comfortable option that connects Dublin Airport to the city centre. Buses run regularly and tickets can be purchased online or at the airport. Many travelers find Air Coach to be clean, comfortable, and easy to use, especially after a long flight. Like Dublin Express, the stops are more limited, which can help reduce travel time. Dublin Bus Dublin Bus is the most affordable way to reach the city centre. Routes such as 16 and 41 connect the airport with different parts of Dublin. The fare is inexpensive, but you must have exact change if paying with cash, or use a Leap card. While it’s the cheapest option, it also tends to make more stops, which can increase travel time. Choosing the Right Option for Your Trip The best option depends on your travel situation. Consider these three things when deciding: • Number of travelers• Amount of luggage• Distance between the bus stop and your hotel A bus may be perfect if you are traveling light and staying near a stop. But if you have multiple bags or a longer walk to your hotel, the convenience of a taxi may be worth the added cost. Getting Your Ireland Trip Off to a Good Start Getting from Dublin Airport to the city centre is fairly simple once you know the options. Whether you choose a taxi, Dublin Express, AirCoach, or Dublin Bus, the right choice depends on balancing cost with convenience. Taking a few minutes to check your hotel location and transportation routes ahead of time can make your arrival in Dublin much smoother. The post How to Get from Dublin Airport to Dublin City Centre appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.
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    13 mins
  • Group Tours in Ireland: What to Expect and How to Choose the Right Coach Tour

    Group Tours in Ireland: What to Expect and How to Choose the Right Coach Tour
    Mar 10 2026
    Group tours are one of the most popular ways to experience Ireland – especially for travelers who want to see a lot without worrying about driving, directions, or logistics. Nearly half of overseas visitors explore Ireland this way, which means coaches crisscross the island daily, bringing travelers to castles, coastlines, and charming towns. But what is it actually like to travel around Ireland on a coach tour? And how do you make sure the tour you choose matches the experience you want? This National Secondary road to the Cliffs of Moher is just wide enough for tour buses to squeeze past each other. This article is based on podcast episode 329 featuring Clodagh FitzGerald, a professional tour guide in Ireland.Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. [powerpoint] Group Tours in Ireland: How Coach Travel Works Professional tour guide Clodagh Fitzgerald spends her days leading travelers around Ireland, and she describes the role as wearing many hats. A guide becomes the storyteller, problem solver, travel advisor, and sometimes even the group timekeeper. Each tour follows a planned itinerary, and the guide’s job is to help travelers understand what they’re seeing along the way – sharing history, culture, geography, and the little details that make Ireland special. For travelers, the biggest benefit is simple: someone else handles the logistics. Typical coach tours include: Transportation across IrelandA knowledgeable guide providing commentaryPre-booked accommodationsSelect included attractionsSome scheduled mealsPlanned sightseeing stops Instead of worrying about navigation or parking, travelers can simply enjoy the journey. How to Choose the Right Group Tour in Ireland Not all tours are created equal. Before booking, it’s important to carefully review the itinerary and details. A few things experienced guides recommend travelers check: Length of the Tour Consider how much time you actually want to spend in Ireland. If you're traveling from North America, it’s wise to arrive at least one day before the tour begins to recover from jet lag and adjust to the time difference. Starting a tour the same day you land can mean spending the first day tired, disoriented, and missing out on the experience. What Is Included (and What Isn’t) Tour itineraries often use wording like “see” or “visit.” Those two words can mean very different things. See often means you’ll drive past the attraction.Visit usually means the group will stop and go inside. Reading the itinerary carefully helps avoid disappointment later. Hotel Locations Some tours stay in city centers, while others stay outside town. Neither is wrong, but the location affects your free time. If you want to explore pubs, shops, or restaurants in the evening, staying in or near the town center makes that much easier. Built-In Free Time Even on a group tour, it’s nice to explore on your own. Many itineraries include: Free eveningsIndependent sightseeing timeOpportunities to shop or explore small towns This balance lets travelers enjoy the structure of a tour while still having personal travel moments. What to Pack for a Coach Tour in Ireland Travelers forget things on every tour, but a few items come up again and again. Some essentials to pack include: A washcloth – not all Irish hotels provide themPrescription medications (always in carry-on luggage)Familiar over-the-counter medicine you normally useEarplugs or headphones for comfort on the coachWeather layers and rain protection Ireland’s weather can change quickly, even in summer. Packing for rain – no matter the forecast – is always a smart move. Understanding Group Travel Dynamics Coach tours bring together travelers from different places and backgrounds. That’s part of the fun, but it also means being mindful of the group. A few simple habits make the experience smoother for everyone: Be on time when the group departsKeep phone calls and music quiet on the coachPay attention when the guide explains timing and stopsRespect shared travel spaces Tours run on schedules, and if one person is late, the entire group may be affected. But the flip side of traveling together is the camaraderie that often develops. By the end of a tour, many travelers have formed friendships, shared photos, and even planned future trips together. Three Places Travelers Wish They Had More Time When tours move quickly, certain destinations leave visitors wishing they could stay longer. These three locations consistently top the list. Kilkenny Often called Ireland’s medieval capital, Kilkenny is packed with winding streets, historic buildings, and excellent local shops. Many tours stop for only a short visit to see Kilkenny Castle, but the town rewards travelers who slow down and explore. Things to see and do: Tour Kilkenny CastleWalk the Medieval MileVisit St. Canice’s CathedralBrowse artisan shops and cafés Dingle Located on the ...
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    31 mins
  • Buying Souvenirs? Here’s How to Get Some Money Back

    Buying Souvenirs? Here’s How to Get Some Money Back
    Mar 3 2026

    This article is part of my Planning Your Ireland Vacation series — a step-by-step guide that walks you through the entire planning process, answers common questions, and helps you move forward with clarity.

    If you’d like to follow the full series in order, you’ll find it at:
    IrelandFamilyVacations.com/planning

    During your Ireland vacation you'll have dozens of opportunities to purchase Ireland souvenirs and gifts.

    My advice? Buy items that will keep memories of your trip fresh for years to come.

    An added bonus when purchasing Ireland souvenirs – the Value Added Tax refund you receive as you leave the country.

    Ireland Souvenir Buying Tips

    If you love it, buy it; you may not find it again. This is especially true for hand crafted and artisan items.

    • If you enjoy a busker and they have a CD available, buy it (or toss in a tip and add them to your Spotify playlist).
    • Irish whiskey – unless the items is exclusive to the distillery wait to purchase it at Duty Free. You'll usually get a better price, the purchase is tax-free, and you won't have to pack it in your carry-on bag.
    • Buy ‘trinkets' at Duty Free in the airport. Trinkets = inexpensive items you see in every gift shop.
    • Chocolates travel well – buy at Duty Free unless you find a chocolate shop you absolutely LOVE. If buying chocolates as a gift purchase two. Unless you have exceptional willpower, one may not make it home.
    • Some items can (and should) be shipped. Pottery, crystal, and glassware are a good example of this.

    For full VAT information, including links, click here.

    The post Buying Souvenirs? Here’s How to Get Some Money Back appeared first on Ireland Family Vacations.
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    12 mins
  • From Fairy Castles to the Hellfire Club: What You’ll Find in the Dublin Mountains

    From Fairy Castles to the Hellfire Club: What You’ll Find in the Dublin Mountains
    Feb 24 2026
    Not far beyond Dublin’s busy streets lies a landscape of forest trails, heather-covered hills, and stories that stretch back thousands of years. The Dublin Mountains are closer than most visitors realize – and packed with history, mythology, and unforgettable views. trail in the Dublin Mountainsphoto courtesy of Ben Shorten, My Bike or Hike; used with permission This article is based on podcast episode 327 featuring Ben Shorten, owner of My Bike or Hike, guided tours around the Dublin area delivered in a sustainable way. Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Dublin Mountains: An Easy City Escape with Ancient Stories The Dublin Mountains form the northern edge of a granite mountain range that stretches nearly 90 miles through Leinster. While they’re often overshadowed by their Wicklow neighbors, this is where the range actually begins – right in South County Dublin. The rounded granite hills make for accessible hill walking rather than extreme hiking. Trails are generally approachable for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness, making this a fantastic half-day or full-day addition to a Dublin itinerary. From many vantage points you’ll enjoy: Sweeping views over Dublin City and the suburbsPanoramas across Dublin Bay and the Irish SeaScenic outlooks into the Wicklow MountainsForest walks and open heathland On a clear day, the views alone are worth the trip. Getting to the Dublin Mountains Without a Car Yes, you can reach the Dublin Mountains by public transport. Several bus routes connect the city and suburbs to trailheads and nearby villages. Services aren’t always as frequent as visitors might hope, but options are steadily improving. With a little planning (and a quick online search), it’s entirely possible to spend the day hill walking without renting a car. That accessibility makes the Dublin Mountains one of the easiest outdoor escapes from the capital. Prehistoric Tombs Older Than the Pyramids Here’s where things get fascinating. On many of the Dublin Mountains’ summits, you’ll find prehistoric megalithic burial tombs, many of which predate the Egyptian pyramids and even Stonehenge. There’s often little signage. No grand visitor center. Sometimes just a mound of stones quietly resting at the top of a hill. But these sites may be 5,000 years old. Fairy Castle cairnphoto courtesy of Ben Shorten, My Bike or Hike; used with permission One notable example sits atop a mountain commonly called Fairy Castle (also known historically by several names, including from the Irish language). The mound is believed to be an ancient tomb—possibly a passage tomb—yet it has never been excavated. What lies beneath remains a mystery. That sense of standing somewhere sacred and ancient, largely undisturbed, is powerful. You’re quite literally walking where people walked thousands of years ago. Where Mythology, History & Archaeology Meet In the Dublin Mountains, it’s common for prehistory, documented history, and Irish mythology to overlap. Mountains like Seefin and Seefingan (names derived from Irish) are linked to legends of Fionn Mac Cumhaill and the Fianna. According to mythology, these were hunting grounds and even “seats” of the great warrior himself. Climb the hill and you may find: A prehistoric tombA mythological story tied to the summitHistorical records from later centuries Few places weave together so many layers of story in one location. Hellfire Clubphoto courtesy of Ben Shorten, My Bike or Hike; used with permission The Hellfire Club on Montpelier Hill If there’s one Dublin Mountains site many visitors have heard of, it’s the Hellfire Club. Perched on Montpelier Hill, the remains of an 18th-century hunting lodge overlook the city with spectacular views. The lodge was built in 1725 by William Conolly, once one of the wealthiest men in Ireland. Local lore says that stones from a prehistoric tomb were used in its construction. Soon after it was built, legends claim the roof blew off – a punishment, some said, for disturbing ancient ground. Later, the building was associated with the notorious Hellfire Club, a group of aristocrats rumored to have hosted wild and possibly sinister gatherings there. While hard evidence is limited, the stories have endured for centuries. Today, visitors can walk up Montpelier Hill, explore the structure, and imagine the layers of history – prehistoric ritual site, 18th-century hunting lodge, and legendary meeting place. It’s atmospheric, dramatic, and one of the best viewpoints near Dublin. Exploring the Dublin Mountains with a Local Guide Ben Shorten, owner of My Bike or Hike, offers guided experiences throughout Dublin – city, coast, countryside, and mountains – with a strong focus on local connection and sustainability. His approach includes: Supporting small, family-run businessesUsing public transport where possibleSharing deep local knowledge and ...
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    26 mins
  • Dublin to Galway (and Why You Might Want to Take the Long Way)

    Dublin to Galway (and Why You Might Want to Take the Long Way)
    Feb 17 2026
    Two Ways Across Ireland: Direct and Easy, or Scenic and Story-Filled Traveling between Dublin and Galway might look simple on a map – a straight shot from east to west. And it can be. But this is Ireland, and sometimes the best part of the journey is what happens when you detour off the motorway. Dublin to Galway Drive: 2 Routes Across Ireland Dublin and Galway are two of Ireland’s most popular city bases. Whether you're starting your trip in the capital or finishing along the Wild Atlantic Way, chances are you’ll travel between them. You have two very different options: The quick motorway route (about 2.5 hours direct)A route that dips south of the motorway and turns the drive into a full-day – or even two-day – journey Which one makes sense for you really comes down to how much time you have between Dublin and Galway. If you're working within a tight schedule, the motorway is efficient and straightforward. If you’ve built flexibility into your itinerary, leaving the motorway opens up castles, early Christian history, and some wonderfully open midlands landscapes along the way. This article is also available as the Traveling in Ireland podcast, episode 326. Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Route 1: The Quick and Easy Motorway (M4 to M6) If you want to arrive in Galway with plenty of afternoon ahead of you, the motorway is your friend. Leaving Dublin, you’ll take the M4, which seamlessly connects to the M6 about a third of the way across the country. It’s an easy drive, well-signed, and very manageable even if you’re new to driving in Ireland. There are two tolls on this route: Kilcock–Kinnegad (M4)West of Ballinasloe (M6) Depending on your starting point in Dublin, you may also encounter the barrier-free electronic toll on the M50 ring road. Learn more about toll roads in Ireland – and why you probably don't need to purchase a tool pass from your rental car company This route is ideal if: You want an uninterrupted afternoon in Galway (or Dublin)You’re planning evening music and pub hoppingYou’re short on time But even the “quick” route offers one classic stop. A Stop in Athlone: Sean’s Bar Roughly halfway across the country sits Athlone, and more specifically, Sean’s Bar — the oldest pub in Ireland (and Europe), with origins dating back to 900 AD. As you enter, Sean’s Bar feels exactly like you hope it will. The long wooden bar anchors the front room, worn smooth by centuries of elbows and conversation. There’s usually a fire glowing in the hearth, adding that unmistakable warmth that Irish pubs do so well. Tucked into corners near the back you’ll find cozy snugs, perfect for quiet chats, while the walls are layered with memorabilia that tells the story of the building and the people who’ve passed through it. There’s even a small viewing area where part of the original wattle and wicker wall is visible – uncovered during renovations and now preserved as a reminder of just how long this spot has welcomed travelers. Most travelers pop in for a quick pint, stretch their legs, and continue west. But if you have time, you can book into one of the workshops: learn to pour a pint of Guinness, sip uisce beatha – the water of life – with a whiskey tasting, or enjoy an Irish coffee while hearing about the pub's history. If you're hungry, the Left Bank Bistro, across the street, is an excellent choice for a relaxed and satisfying meal before getting back on the road. Parking tip: Street parking near the pub is limited. Follow the road up the hill for paid public parking (bring coins or download the parking app to pay). From here, it’s about an hour to Galway — and you’ll likely arrive with the afternoon still ahead of you. Route 2: The Scenic Detour through County Offaly If you have a full day between Dublin and Galway – or even better, two – dipping south of the motorway transforms a simple transfer into a highlight of your itinerary. Exiting the motorway at the N52 will lead you to A remarkable castle estateOne of Ireland’s most important monastic sitesOptional whiskey experiencesA castle stayWide-open parklands reclaimed from peat bog It’s slower. It’s richer. And it feels wonderfully “middle of Ireland.” From the M6, exit at Kilbeggan and follow the N52 south toward Birr. Birr Castle: Innovation and Gardens in the Irish Midlands Birr Castle Demesne is one of those places that surprises people. Still a private residence of the Parsons family (the Earls of Rosse), the estate blends science, history, and landscape beautifully. The on-site Science Centre tells the story of the family’s remarkable innovations – from early photography to engineering feats – and most impressively, the Leviathan telescope, which was the largest in the world until the 1920s. Visiting Birr Castle isn’t only about innovation and astronomy. Once you leave the Science Centre, the estate ...
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    19 mins
  • Skellig Michael: An Archaeologist Explains What It’s Really Like to Visit Ireland’s Most Extreme Island

    Skellig Michael: An Archaeologist Explains What It’s Really Like to Visit Ireland’s Most Extreme Island
    Feb 10 2026
    Skellig Michael rises straight out of the Atlantic, jagged and dramatic, and according to archaeologist Neil Jackman, it’s every bit as challenging as it looks. Visiting this remote Kerry island can be an extraordinary experience – but only if travelers understand what’s involved before they try. Visiting Skellig Michael: What Travelers Need to Know Clochans on Skellig MichaelImage provided by Tuatha; used with permission This article is based on podcast episode 325 featuring archaeologist Neil Jackman, director of Abarta Heritage and Tuatha. Neil is a returning guest – listen to his episode about Ireland's Ancient East.Use the player below to listen or scroll to continue reading the article and get resource links. Where the Skellig Islands Are and Why They’re So Unforgettable The Skellig Islands sit about 12 kilometers (8 miles) off the coast of County Kerry, beyond the Skellig Ring. Skellig Michael is the larger of the two, shaped like a steep stone pyramid rising from the ocean. From viewpoints along the Ring of Kerry, it’s striking – but being out on the water brings its scale and isolation into sharp focus. Neil describes it as a place that doesn’t quite belong to the modern world, and that sense of otherworldliness is part of what makes the islands so compelling. The Monastery at the Edge of the Atlantic Skellig Michael’s fame isn’t just about scenery. The island is home to an early medieval monastery, likely founded in the 7th century by monks seeking complete isolation for spiritual devotion. With no deserts in Ireland, remote Atlantic islands became places of withdrawal and focus. The monastery complex includes: Dry-stone beehive huts (clocháns)Oratories and outdoor altarsA burial area and stone crossesIngenious rainwater collection systems All of it was built without mortar, relying entirely on carefully balanced stone. The site later endured Viking raids, was rededicated to St. Michael the Archangel, and eventually abandoned as a permanent settlement—though it never lost its importance as a place of pilgrimage. Little Skellig: The Island You Can’t Visit Beside Skellig Michael is Little Skellig, dramatically steeper and even more inhospitable. Today it’s a protected bird sanctuary, home to tens of thousands of gannets, and landing is not permitted. While archaeologists believe it would be surprising if Little Skellig was completely unused in the past, modern visitors experience it only from the water – where its scale and wildlife are still jaw-dropping. When Skellig Michael Can Be Visited Access to Skellig Michael is extremely limited. The landing season generally runs from late April or early May through September, and even then, weather plays the deciding role. Roughly one-third of scheduled trips are canceled each year. Calm conditions on shore don’t guarantee a landing; the swell at the island’s pier must be minimal, and conditions can change quickly. Neil stresses that flexibility is essential. Neil Jackman at the monastery of Skellig Michaelimage provide by Neil; used with permission Booking Tips From Someone Who’s Been There Demand for Skellig Michael has increased dramatically, and visitor numbers are tightly controlled for safety and preservation. What travelers should know: Landing permits sell out quicklyStaying near Portmagee or Valentia Island improves your chances of last-minute openingsPlanning multiple days in the area gives you flexibility if weather cancels your trip There’s no foolproof strategy – just patience, preparation, and backup plans. What a Landing Trip Is Really Like A landing trip typically includes a 45–55 minute boat ride each way, often rough even on decent days. Once ashore, visitors have several hours on the island – but the physical challenge comes fast. The climb to the monastery involves 618 steep stone steps, with no handrails and narrow sections where people pass in both directions. Neil’s practical advice: Skip walking sticks; you need free hands for balanceAnyone uncomfortable with heights should think carefully before starting the climbYou don’t need to be an athlete, but a reasonable level of fitness mattersTake breaks – there are natural resting points along the way There is now a single toilet facility near the landing area, but queues form quickly. Puffins, Gannets, and Wildlife Encounters From April through early July, Skellig Michael is home to thousands of puffins, nesting right beside the steps. They’re remarkably unfazed by visitors and are a highlight for many travelers. Gannets dominate the skies year-round, and crossings sometimes include sightings of dolphins or whales. Later in the season, the puffins are gone, but the atmosphere of the island remains just as powerful. Eco Tours: A Worthwhile Alternative For those who can’t land – or choose not to – eco tours circle Skellig Michael and Little Skellig without docking. These trips focus on: Wildlife viewingSea cliffs and island ...
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    45 mins